[https://www.demon-tweeks.com/aem-electr ... lsrc=aw.ds][/url]
I'm too old for roadside jetting guesswork so am going to buy an AFR gauge, anyone have any advice or recommendations above and beyond the one listed above? Cheers.
Air Fuel Gauge Recommendations
-
- registered user
- Posts: 79
- Joined: Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:15 pm
- Location: Brighton
- Contact:
- Stampede
- registered user
- Posts: 224
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:07 pm
- Main scooter: SX200
- Location: Landsberg, Germany
- Contact:
I use the MTX from Innovate since some years, working fine:
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/pro ... l_plus.php
https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/pro ... l_plus.php
-
- registered user
- Posts: 1292
- Joined: Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:43 pm
- Main scooter: Li Avanti 225
- Location: York
- Contact:
Out of interest.........if you set up the carb' stationary will it be affected when it's moving ? By this i mean when your travelling along at say 60mph with side panels on will the air intake be the same as when stationary ?.....pretty much same as a dyno' i suppose ?
-
- registered user
- Posts: 246
- Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2012 5:07 pm
- Main scooter: Lambro, GP.
- Contact:
Agent Buchwald, The AEM afr gauge is very accurate, but is not terribly robust. I'd add that the Bosch sensors clog up with the two stroke oil on a fairly regular basis and start to give you false readings, and need replacing on a regular basis. Also you'll need a fairly consistent 5-10 Amp DC supply.
Once you've set up the carb, you are probably better removing it from the scoot. With welding the sensor boss on, and the cost of the set-up/ battery I'd suggest an hour on you local dyno for less than a third of the cost (JB Tuning?) And jetting generally won't change unless you change something.
Mick, although on a dyno the scooter is stationary, it is under load rather than just free revving in neutral. Dyno/ carb set-up should be done with panels on if using an open carb, as panel obstruction will alter airflow ergo jetting. Also, carburation/ jetting should also be checked in the over-rev range as leaning off can regularly be observed, (That rev range BEYOND peak HP [eek]) and personally I'd prefer the scooter "stationary" whilst doing that.
The AFR from Innovate 'looks' a bit more robust than the AEM but no experience of it, and same applies re power and sensors.
Once you've set up the carb, you are probably better removing it from the scoot. With welding the sensor boss on, and the cost of the set-up/ battery I'd suggest an hour on you local dyno for less than a third of the cost (JB Tuning?) And jetting generally won't change unless you change something.
Mick, although on a dyno the scooter is stationary, it is under load rather than just free revving in neutral. Dyno/ carb set-up should be done with panels on if using an open carb, as panel obstruction will alter airflow ergo jetting. Also, carburation/ jetting should also be checked in the over-rev range as leaning off can regularly be observed, (That rev range BEYOND peak HP [eek]) and personally I'd prefer the scooter "stationary" whilst doing that.
The AFR from Innovate 'looks' a bit more robust than the AEM but no experience of it, and same applies re power and sensors.