Scooterotica

Has anyone got any pics or good advice for routing the hose from lever to caliper. The braided hose I had supplied with my Scoots RS disc looks like it won't pass through the chrome ring for a start, even with the banjo's off, and what's the best method down the fork / turning mudguard end ? Does a 'Venhill' hose have a smaller diameter ?
Thanks in advance.

Look at the winter model restored by soulsurfer. He's routed his (and now me as well) through the headset clamp bolt hole (after changing the bolt for a standard allen socket head bolt). Venhill hoses fit fine, I have one on mine. Big advantage of them is the banjo ends having adjustable ends, so no kinks. Also, get a venhill banjo with a rear brake light switch that works from the hydraulic fluid pressure.
Stu.

Ihateyoubutler wrote:Look at the winter model restored by soulsurfer. He's routed his (and now me as well) through the headset clamp bolt hole (after changing the bolt for a standard allen socket head bolt). Venhill hoses fit fine, I have one on mine. Big advantage of them is the banjo ends having adjustable ends, so no kinks. Also, get a venhill banjo with a rear brake light switch that works from the hydraulic fluid pressure.
Stu.

Thanks for your reply, but after entering the bolt hole I'm not sure of route from there, whether through fork stem & out under mudguard (if so, presumably a hole in base of stem adjacent to existing Speedo cable hole would need to be drilled), or through silver ring & behind horn casting. If the latter, two problems from what I can see are firstly, will a Venhill hose pass through the ring, and secondly how do you get back 'inside' the turning mudguard after the hose appears from under the horncasting in order to connect to the disc brake? I like the sound of the Venhill banjo that operates the rear brake light btw.

Through the ring (on left side if looking from front of scoot) and down the left hand side between fork tube and legshield (plenty of room). Then, through the original hole in mudguard that brake cable would have taken. Enlarge the hole in mudguard slightly and fit a grommit to stop any rubbing. Route the hose first before fitting banjos.Hardest part (for me) was measuring the length of hose to order, not wanting too long or short. Maybe use an old outer cable to make a dummy and cable tie in place. I very rarely use the back brake because of the disc, so the brake light switch is pretty good.
If you get stuck, I'll get some pics. Be a few days though.

This is what i did, (the Jason Frost Method )...
Not an S2 but its the same thing , it follows the original brake cable route.
From underneath

Thanks for pics Carlos, and Stu ta for your explanation (some piccies would be appreciated too if you can be bothered).

Some pics on my basket build thread ref routing the hose through the headset bolt hole
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 1&start=10

Mike

Dell Oughta wrote:Some pics on my basket build thread ref routing the hose through the headset bolt hole
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... 1&start=10

Mike

Helpful piccies those Mike, ta very much.

Has anyone got photos of the cable routing they could post on here please.
Due to the photobucket loosing all photos i cannot see the routing required.
I know i have to change the s2 clamp bolt to a series 3 bolt if i want to pass the hydraulic hose through the clamp bolt hole in the headset.
I have bought a venhill hose to fit through. But this will not pass by the clamp and side of the headset bottom.
Do i need to remove the entire camp via the 4 bolts and fit the hose then re attach the clamp?

Robbie

wrecklessrobbie wrote: ↑Sun Jan 14, 2018 8:12 pm Do i need to remove the entire camp via the 4 bolts and fit the hose then re attach the clamp?

Robbie

No Robbie, just remove the long hex bolt and replace it with the S3 / GP version. If you keep the headset still you should be able to keep it in line.