stopping power for a Lambretta isnt limited to hydraulics

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coaster
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victor wrote:....But as they are attached to the same part the suspension does not at all affect the amount of braking.....Still, I repeat, it's unrelated to the movements of the fork links.
Interesting debate but I still don't think all elements of rear pull have been concidered. I reckon that with the lever pulled in under braking the cable inner and outer will act like a semi stiff rod which would apply additional pressure to the brake arm as the suspention dips. This will not happen with the normal setup. The effect would be made worse by the use of thicker inner cables and outer support tubing as per alcoholics photo........discuss ;)
Muppet
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coaster wrote:
victor wrote:....But as they are attached to the same part the suspension does not at all affect the amount of braking.....Still, I repeat, it's unrelated to the movements of the fork links.
Interesting debate but I still don't think all elements of rear pull have been concidered. I reckon that with the lever pulled in under braking the cable inner and outer will act like a semi stiff rod which would apply additional pressure to the brake arm as the suspention dips. This will not happen with the normal setup. The effect would be made worse by the use of thicker inner cables and outer support tubing as per alcoholics photo........discuss ;)
Yup tis aboot it; an when yav put one together ya can see it in action but only if yav got the square wound cable and a strong inner or the outer collapses and the inner stretches,
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alcoholic maniacs sc
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can't report a mishap yet down to my new found stopping power. has shown up the deficiencies in the standard mec euro front shockers though. i like the look of standard ones so i won't be fitting the modern techy style, are there any standard shockers out there that offer classic looks with a bit extra beef??. checked my back plate was the reinforced type, its an original spanish one i think or a late sx150 silver one as the paint appears original. the bike received a damn good test on saturday due to a range rover changing lanes and it performed two up like a good 'un. im very happy with my financial outlay but looks like the shockers will need an upgrade. Lever feel is excellent, not like a rod connected to the lever, as a frequent bike owner as well i'd definately say its got better feel and consistancy than some overkill hydraulic discs. :ugeek:
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victor
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I've noticed the same suspension issue, but your first buy should be stronger springs (camlam's progressive seem highly appreciated) as the shocks are there only to minimise bouncing - during braking/diving it's the springs that are working.

Then with stronger springs probably you'd need updated shocks too that are not too soft to counter balance the new stronger springs :)
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alcoholic maniacs sc
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part of the reason for the drum upgrade results from the poorer performance of modern brake shoes. Even perfectly adjusted (and ive fitted a few sets over the years!!) a second hand set of old shoes will still work better than any of the new types. there may be options like jockeys boxenstop but i havent tried those. what i do know is the set up i am trialling is so far performing as well or better than could be expected of a small moped drum attached to a tuned 200 engine and a pilot with a death or glory driving style. :lol:
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coaster
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alcoholic maniacs sc wrote:part of the reason for the drum upgrade results from the poorer performance of modern brake shoes. Even perfectly adjusted (and ive fitted a few sets over the years!!) a second hand set of old shoes will still work better than any of the new types. there may be options like jockeys boxenstop but i havent tried those. what i do know is the set up i am trialling is so far performing as well or better than could be expected of a small moped drum attached to a tuned 200 engine and a pilot with a death or glory driving style. :lol:
You make a good point about the quality or properties of modern brake linings, maybe they don't perform as well for a given pressure as the old asbestos based ones :?: In which case the possible loss of 'feeling' with the rear entry method (don't take the wrong way :oops: ) might not be an issue. I also agree that the lack of feel of some hydraulic setups is probably worse. I have just replaced the functional front drum on my jet for a SPAQ front disc and a Nissin master cylinder. I had been warned (thanks Mark) that the Nissin was too big and should use one off a Pergeot Speed fighter but when I had problems bleeding it I bought the new Nissin. It works VERY well, in fact too well and I have to be very careful and only use 2 fingers on it.

The front brake on my Lis is next to useless and I'm thinking of follo0wing Storkfoots route of a hydraulic inboard front disc.
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victor wrote:
Muppet wrote:
dirtyhandslopez wrote:Twas pleasure.

I reckon the official term might be a servo effect taking place. Or something like that.

iremember reading this in one of the old crumby 60' motorcycle/scooter mags i did the conversion on my disc it was fantastic had braking power in heaps; did it to a drum brake the fecker locked up to easy an threw me off twice :shock:
Correct, servo effect, it's as if you are stronger so you might be able to lock the brake. The front brake on my SS is ridiculously sensible and locks up for nothing when it's humid outside. Phasing of the edges of the abrasive material on the shoes made it a lot better though.
Muppet wrote: the outer pushes down more as the suspension moves up under braking this increasing braking power which adds to the suspension movement with increased braking; the suspension movement on its own dont efect the cable unles the brake is being pulled; sort of servo assist when its needed; for me an those with slower reflexes never on a drum brake, :evil:
muppet,


Still, I repeat, it's unrelated to the movements of the fork links.

Tell you what then, do a front drum reverse pull conversion using a squishy front brake cable and normal suspension set.
Do the same with a more solid cable set up.
Repeat using a front end set up with no suspension travel whatsoever and come back and tell us which one plants your forehead in the tarmac the quickest.

When was the last ime anyone did a reverse pull conversion on an SS? Oh, that's right, you can't ;)
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signrik
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Could this system be handy for a mot pass without worries I have a first MOT coming up on my first rebuild scooter obviously after the MOT I would either fine tune the original method or maybe disk it or even keep it but it would seem an easy way to sort the spongy piece of crap I have now why do the levers have such a large hole in them for such a tiny nipple end are there some type of packers that fit around the nipple to make them fit better
Will this setup be legal for a MOT? cheers rik
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coaster
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signrik wrote:Could this system be handy for a mot pass without worries I have a first MOT coming up on my first rebuild scooter obviously after the MOT I would either fine tune the original method or maybe disk it or even keep it but it would seem an easy way to sort the spongy piece of crap I have now why do the levers have such a large hole in them for such a tiny nipple end are there some type of packers that fit around the nipple to make them fit better
Will this setup be legal for a MOT? cheers rik
The nipple SHOULDN't be that sloppy, sounds like you may have the wrong type. Some of the ebay ones are rather generic, I seen to remember there being some sort of adapter pieces in my old T5 but the Lambretta isn't supposed to have them. You can buy oversize pivot bolts to take the slack out of the levers as well if needed, I think MB sells them.
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And make sure you take your scoot to an MOTer who knows the idiosyncracies (S) of Lambrettas ;) :D
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